Currents and Winds at Anchor in La Paz

November 15, 2022   

The harbour of La Paz is a very unique anchorage, different at least, from any other that we have ever been to.  Because the harbour basin is very large, about five nautical miles long, four nautical miles at its widest point, and only 0.5 of a nautical mile wide in the area of our anchorage, and even though there is only about a six-foot tide change on the large tides, there is a lot of water moving in and out.  This massive entering and exiting of water every day creates a lot of current, and we have measured over 3.5 knots flowing past our boat.  It is like being anchored in a river that switches directions. 

The curious part comes on the windy days.  In most anchorages, if it is calm all of the boats will point into the current and swing somewhat in unison on the turn of the tide.  And, if it is windy, all of the boats will point into the wind.  Here, however, because the current is so strong, all of the boats point into the current pretty well no matter what the wind strength is.  This means that even when we are getting 20-30 knots of wind, it may very well be hitting us on the stern instead of the bow.  The result of this is what is locally known as the La Paz Waltz. 

It is a dance of sorts as all of the boats move differently.  Different hull structure, boat size, weight, or amount of windage can cause all of the boats to move about quite independently from each other.  It is not uncommon for a boat to be “sailing” forwards at anchor, with the wind on its stern, while remaining pointed into the ebbing current.  The anchor chain will be slack at times and at other times be stretched out right underneath the boat.  One boat may move sooner under these influences than others in such a way that one will begin to catch up to the other boats before finally coming to the end of the anchor rode.  Then the other boats may start to move as well, and slowly distances between the boats will equalize themselves back to their happy places.  It is a very bizarre event to watch as all of the boats are turning and moving to their own tune.   

During a time of strong currents and wind it also becomes an art form to bring the tender up along side of our boat, get in and out, and also pass supplies up to the deck.  At the same time as Kiki is bouncing around in the chop built up by wind blowing against the current, she also wants to drift away from us as though being pulled down river.  It is definitely a unique experience. 

The days of combined strong wind and strong current are few, however, and for the most part we have calm nights and calm mornings.  Usually the wind begins to pick up at around 11:00 and calm back off after sunset, with daily maximum winds usually not getting over 11 knots. 

It is a lovely cycle with cool nights that let us sleep soundly onboard and then lovely warm days that make us want to swim and be outside.  The water temperature is lovely, and so are the daily high and low air temperatures.  It really does seem to be an ideal climate in the winter months here.