Graveyard Beach

November 1, 2022  

The day after exploring the mangrove estuary we decided to walk across to the outer shore.  So, we packed our lunch and lots of water and once again had everything in dry bags attached to our kayaks.  This time we made our way to the mouth of the other estuary, but in order to get into the estuary with our kayaks we had to travel through the surf.  Once again Jason stayed dry and I got wet, oh well.   

This western most estuary entrance was at the edge of the western most piece of land that formed the anchorage, and it was a large ridgeline of mountains.  Along the base of these mountains and just up from the shore there was a small collection of about fifteen shacks.  These were the residences of seasonal lobster fishermen and as we travelled further into the estuary we passed by several other little groupings of shacks.  Fishermen with their panga easily speed in and out of the surf break into the protected waters of the mangrove.  There was a narrow sandy road that connected these little seasonal villages, and after passing three of them we came to what appeared to be the last place to access the road from the water.   

We beached our kayaks, grabbed our packs, and began our walk along the road.  It was almost instant that we were attacked by mosquitoes, and they took us quite by surprise as it was our first encounter with biting bugs in Mexico.  There were no mosquitoes on the beach, none in the mangroves, but as soon as we entered the dry cactus-covered hillside we were being eaten alive.  Since we had come unprepared for such an encounter we really only had two choices, go back to the boat for bug spray, or walk very briskly so as to try to keep ahead of the swarm.  We chose the latter. 

As we speed walked along in our flip-flops in the heat of the sun we passed many cool types of cactus, some in bloom, others with fruit on them. 

 

We stopped briefly for me to take pictures only to rush on again swatting at our arms and legs.  It was impressive that these mosquitoes, which were smaller than the ones that we were used to in BC, could be out in the heat of the sun with absolutely no sign of fresh water anywhere, and we were optimistic that by the time we would be making our way home in the full heat of the afternoon that the mosquitoes would be in hiding in the shade of the cactus.   

After about a 35-minute speed walk along a winding and hilly, sandy road we came to the outer coast and were greeted by a welcome breeze, not quite strong enough to keep the mosquitoes at bay, but it allowed us to slow down and take more time to look around without being immediately harassed.  The waves were crashing up against a rugged and rocky shoreline with the remains of an old wreck still standing out from shore. 

The top of the shipwreck was covered in resting pelicans and many more were feeding just out past the break line.  We made our way to the beginning of the beach, which extended 37 miles northwards from there. 

As soon as we stepped out onto the beach there were no more mosquitoes, we slowed down and enjoyed our beach walk.  It did not take us long to realize that there was not nearly the variety of shells that there had been on the inner beach and that what shells there were, were mostly broken into pieces, but what this beach did have was a wide selection of bones, and most notably, a large number of turtle shells. 

Along our walk we came across at least a dozen turtle shells and skeletons in varying degrees of decay.  One shell was so weathered that when we touched a part of it the piece simply broke away.  Another shell still had the leathery outer skin of the turtle's body and the skull and other bones in among its skin.  We also found two very fresh dead turtles that had clearly washed up with the last high tide. 

The vultures marked their location on the beach and were trying to peck a hole through the tough hide and into the meat.  It was amazing the size of the barnacles on one of the turtle's shell; they were about three inches across and with the bright colours and barnacles the poor turtle looked like an art piece lying on the sand.  It was quite something to see, not only as our first turtle shell, but so many skeletons had accumulated on this beach over time.  

In addition to the turtles we also saw bones from seals or sea lions, a couple of pelican skulls with their very distinct long beaks, and some whale bones. 

The whale bones were very neat to see, such large bones, many vertebra, and we also found the skull. 

One thing that is a bit weird about the beaches that we have visited so far in Mexico is that there is almost no driftwood, and we also never see driftwood out in the ocean.  This makes sense when you think about it, since there are no trees on shore, but it is also a bit strange since we are so used to the beaches being loaded with driftwood. 

This also means that there is nothing to sit on for our picnics, so the whale skull served this purpose on this particular beach. 

On our way back home, shortly after leaving the beach, we came across two old rusty, broken-down trucks, which had been thoroughly stripped for parts.  This included taking the wheels, and since there was no wood to block the truck up with, the people had used whale vertebra instead.  The locals sometimes used the beach that we had just been on as an extension of the sandy road that we had followed from the estuary.  This beach then connects to another sandy road that cuts across to an area across from a town where the fishermen get their fuel and supplies.  We saw one vehicle driving back to the villages along the beach and since it was near high tide they had to drive in the wet sand in order to be on the firm ground.  It was no wonder that all of their vehicles were covered in rust; it was a very harsh environment.  

Despite the heat of the afternoon sun and the dry air we still found that the mosquitoes were out in full force to welcome us as soon as we stepped foot off of the beach.  We rushed our way back to our kayaks, which were a welcomed sight when we got back to the mangroves.  Back out on the estuary once again we were free from the bugs and free to leisurely paddle our way back home.